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I’ve never done anything like that and have not heard of it being done, but that does not make it possible. I’ll ask around and see if anyone I know has tried it, but by then you will probably already know the answer.

I am having a problem with CH series Cutler Hammer breakers.  Apparently
there are at least three different shaped breakers in the CH series.  I have
three in front of me and they are different along the edge that would face
the centerline of the breaker box (opposite the edge where the wires
connect).

One has a wedge shaped notch (apparently called a "large notch version").

One has an "L" shaped notch but includes the outline of the Large Notch.

One has no notch, just a flat front.

Other than that they are identical, same size, same shape, same color
combinations.

I think the Large notch is the oldest version.  A few years ago I needed a
Large notch version.  All I could get was the L notch and that was
"refurbished".  The guy at the store said they routinely grind out the L to
match the Large outline so we did that and it works fine.

Now I need a 40 amp double pole Large notch.  I have tried 7 or 8 places
that sell refurbished Cutler Hammer breakers and none has the 40 amp double
pole Large notch version.

One of the places said all I have to do is remove a plastic strip from the
breaker box that uses the Large notch breakers and then I can use any CH
series breaker.

I don't have access to that breaker box right now so I can't tell if removal
makes sense.

So, has anybody done this or heard of doing it?

Thanks In Advance,

Pete

Great.  Thanks.  This will save some $.

There is no need to increase the wire size at all, voltage drop will not be an issue as long as you stay under 300 feet.

I'm wiring a new house.....so everything.  Some of my home runs are just over 100 feet, plus another 30-40 feet for the branch circuits.  60-70 feet to electric range/oven, will 6/3 NM do lit? 80 feet to dryer and water heater.

What exactly what you are running the wire for?

The chart at   http://www.wireityourself.com/wire_sizes.html   has a note that seems to indicate the listed wire sizes are good for runs up to 300 feet.  Is that correct?  Some sites have suggested increasing wire size when runs go over 50 feet, and again over 100feet.  Thoughts please.  I'm referring to standard residential 110/220 wiring.

Thanks for your help, I ended up adding the 3 gang box.

After posting the previous a thought came to mind that may make your life much easier. They make a double switch which would save you the obvious trouble of having to change the box. All you would need to do is fish the wire into the existing box and wire it up. 

It looks like the feed is coming in on the black of the three wire and supplies the power to both switches. The red would be the switch leg  going back to a device. When you add the new switch connect one side of the switch to the existing feed and the hot going to the new fixture to the other side of the switch. The neutral would be connected in the wirenut with all the other neutrals, and of course the grounds with the grounds.


Now the box will be a far bigger challenge, first you will need to remove the existing box without damaging the wires. Next make the hole big enough for the new box, I would use 3 LC boxes connected together and fastened with F straps or hold its as they are called. Get all the wires into the new box as you install it and wire it all up.